Monday, May 14, 2012

Just a Little Love Shack on Marina Cay, BVI!

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Much like today, in 1937 the U.S. economy was struggling and the world is a tough place for a pair of newlyweds looking for a place to escape the madness. Fledgling writer Robb White and his new wife Rosalie “Rodie” Mason decided to head out on an adventure to make a fresh start for themselves. What timing! There was a crippling depression at home and rumblings of a war abroad. Married only 4 months, Robb & Rodie packed up and set sail for the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean in search of a quiet place to write and reflect. Once ashore, they experienced several disappointing weeks in Sea Cow’s Bay, near Road Town, Tortola of being a “novelty” to the West Indian locals and being eaten alive by mosquitos. Frustrated, Robb put his typewriter in his little sailing boat and wrote in the middle of the bay each day. The pair decided they had to get out of town and spent weeks sailing their 13’ sailboat daily throughout the islands in search of a more suitable home. Excitedly, they found Marina Cay, a rocky nine acre island surround by reef just off the East end of Tortola, near Trellis Bay and bought it for an amazing $60! 

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We first visited Marina Cay in 1987, vacationing on a privately chartered sailing yacht. The crew told us the tales they had heard of Robb & Rodie living in a tent while digging a cistern and building a small house on top of the highest point of the little island. Paradise wasn’t entire idyllic; as the couple faced one challenge after another. Rob wrote about the experience in his book Virgin Island, published in 1953. His book was made into a movie Our Virgin Island in 1958 starring Sidney Poitier. We’ve been told that the Beef Island airport was built just so that the film crew and stars could land conveniently to Marina Cay! On a 1958 episode of TV's This Is Your Life, Robb White's sister said that "young Bob was the proverbial minister's son, a rebel against all rules and full of deviltry". His rebel spirit was  what made his time on Marina Cay a successful venture. 

The Whites spent three years on Marina Cay, hacking a home out of the rough, rocky land and shipping in enough concrete to build a small, sturdy house. These were adventurous years —during which the couple lived on what they caught in the ocean, weathered a hurricane, fended off a crazy Nazi skipper, aided Jewish refugees who sailed across the ocean to escape the Holocaust, and survived a surprise a visit from Robb’s mother-in-law (who didn’t appreciate the amenities as compared to her 8,000 acre Georgia plantation!). Many of these tales are detailed in his memoirs published in 1939 by the title of In Privateer's Bay

Robb was recalled to military duty in the Pacific Navy when World War II broke out; he flew as a pilot, and served on battleships, submarines and aircraft carriers. He earned eight medals and retired with the rank of Lieutenant Commander after five years of service.

During his time away in the Navy, he and Rodie lost Marina Cay. The British government had never issued them a license to hold the land and later formally refused, stating that White's published writings had misrepresented conditions in the BVI. Sadly, a couple of decades later, they divorced; Rodie stayed in her childhood home in Georgia and Robb relocated to California and continued his path as a very successful writer. He wrote adventure novels or young readers such as The Lion’s Paw, television scripts for shows like Perry Mason (21 in all) and screen plays for a few horror films. On November 24th, 1990 Robb White died from major head injuries during an car accident. 

Today, the 600 sq. ft. stout little house Robb and Rodie built stands surrounded by bougainvilleas, hibiscuses and banyan trees. During the sailing season, you’ll find us there with our guests enjoying sundowners at the bar and listening to local music! We enjoy introducing people the wonderful black & white photos of Robb & Rodie, taken when they were only 28 & 24 years old at Pusser’s Restaurant, also located on the island. Our favorite is one of the couple toasting the camera with a pair of crystal martini glasses. These restored old photos were taken by a sailing visitor from San Juan who visited the island occasionally from 1937-1940. 

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Many of Robb Whites books are out of print. But we can regale you with the amazing tales of his adventures at Marina Cay handed down from generation to generation of crewed yacht charter Captains! For the past fifteen years, we visit Marina Cay aboard Three Moons Yacht on our charters for the same reason the Whites did; there’s always something magical experiencing what it must have been like to live on a private island and escaping the madness of the world! 

~Contact a professionally certified yacht charter broker for more information about Three Moons Yacht

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